There is a specific sound that makes every homeowner’s heart sink: the rhythmic scritch-scratch of tiny claws moving inside a wall or above a ceiling in the dead of night.
In my line of work, the first thing I do when I hear that sound isn't reaching for a trap—it’s playing detective. In our area, we are usually dealing with one of two distinct "characters": the Norway Rat or the Roof Rat.
While they might look similar to the untrained eye, they are very different pests that require two completely different strategies to defeat. Here is how I identify your "uninvited guests" and how I get them out for good.
1. The Norway Rat: The "Heavy" of the Underground
Think of the Norway Rat as the "muscle" of the rodent world. These guys are big, stocky, and built for the ground.
- Appearance: They have thick bodies, blunt noses, and small ears. Their most defining feature? A tail that is shorter than their body.
- Behavior: They are world-class burrowers. If you see holes in the dirt near your foundation or "runways" pressed into the grass, you likely have Norway rats.
- Where they hide: They prefer the basement, the crawlspace, or under the floorboards. They want to be low and close to water.
2. The Roof Rat: The High-Wire Acrobat
The Roof Rat is the sleek, athletic cousin. If Norway rats are the "muscle," Roof rats are the "ninjas."
- Appearance: They are more slender and graceful, with big ears and a pointed nose. Their defining feature is a very long, whip-like tail that is actually longer than their body—they use it for balance while walking on power lines or tree branches.
- Behavior: As the name suggests, they love height. They are incredible climbers and can squeeze through a hole the size of a nickel.
- Where they hide: You’ll find these in the attic, in the insulation, or even in the rafters of your garage. They often enter the home by "tightroping" from a tree limb directly onto your roof.
My Strategy: Why "Set It and Forget It" Traps Fail
Many people think getting rid of rats is as simple as putting a wooden trap on the kitchen floor. As a professional, I know that rats are neophobic—meaning they are literally terrified of anything new in their environment.
Here is how I actually solve the problem:
Exclusion (The Most Important Step)
I don't just kill the rats inside; I stop the ones outside from getting in. This is called "exclusion." I perform a top-to-bottom inspection of your home. For Roof rats, I’m checking eaves and roof vents. For Norway rats, I’m looking at foundation gaps and crawlspace doors. I seal these entry points with materials rats can't chew through, like steel mesh and professional sealants.
Sanitation & Habitat Modification
Rats are there for a reason: food or shelter. I’ll work with you to identify "lures" you might not have noticed—like bird feeders, fallen fruit from trees, or pet food left out overnight.
Strategic Trapping & Baiting
Once the "doors" are locked, I deal with the ones still inside. I place traps and bait stations based on the specific species.
- For Norway rats, I focus on the ground-level "highways."
- For Roof rats, I’m up in the attic and on the rafters.
The Bottom Line
You don't just want the rats gone today; you want them gone forever. By understanding the biology of whether we are dealing with a "ground-dweller" or an "acrobat," I can create a custom plan that secures your home from the inside out.
If you’re hearing things go bump in the night, let’s find out which rat is responsible and show them the exit.
Get ready to land a CRITICAL HIT on your pests!
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